Quasimoto was a pig with a bad back. He was born with a mutated spine that looked like the track of a what would be a really fun roller coaster, but what left him with little hope to live a long life. He wee-zed with each breath and it was clear allowing him to put on more weight would only stress his back and cause further trouble far beyond respiratory. And so, it came to be that Quasi was scheduled to join us for dinner.
In Meat Fabrication class at school we were assigned to watch a video our instructor slaughtering, dressing (gutting), and fabricating a calf and a pig. What I remember most from the videos is watching the 6 foot something German man say to the camera "nou aaaa let's make aaaa the pig aaaaa more comfort-bul" he then took out a pistol and shot it in the head. From that point on I did my best to never appear uncomfortable in his class. I suppose starting out with a bang (I had too) was the best way of easing the tension. Keeping it quick and emotionless was important. If the video first showed the tall German scratching piggy's whiskers and patting him on the belly while he oinked and wiggled his tail the 22 to the head would have come across a bit too Old Yeller meets Charlotte's web.
This lesson seemed relative to a lot of instanced on the farm. It was hard at first to look at cute little creatures and see grilled steaks, bacon, and fried wings, but the truth is inevitable and nature must take its course. Ignorance is blissful but I'd much rather have a full stomach. So when the farmer started to hint that Quazi's days were numbered, I took the opportunity to sing for my supper and experience a slaughter of my own.
The date was set for tuesday, my day off. This allowed ample time for attention to detail and respect to be given. The course of events would be that the farmer, a couple farm assistants, and I would round up Qauzi and take him from pen and away from the other pigs . It's best to shoot them away from the other because, unlike most other livestock animals, pigs can tell that they or another is going to die. I was forewarned that since Quazi was still a fairly young pig his cries were going to sound uncomfortably similar to a screeching child. As if a screeching "tween" pig wasn't bad enough. After we got him away from the others The farmer was going to shoot him in the head, at which piont I would take over and slit his throat in order to bleed him. Then I'd be left to scald, shave, gut and cut.
The night before I sharpened my knives for both practical and symbolic reasons. It seemed respectful to ensure that my knives would be ready to make a clean fast cut. I had been by the pen earlier in the day to feed the pigs and took the opportunity to walk by and pet Quazi. This sort of went against my emotionless lesson, but I felt it was the right thing to do. If I was going to be slaughtered I'd at least like to know by who. I fell asleep that night reading an outline of the methods and procedures and awoke to a text from the farmer asking "so you wanna slaughter a pig today?"
I'm not sure how this is going to sound but I woke up with a sense of excitement. I felt like completing this slaughter would be another right of passage. Another reassurance of my sense of belonging and another step in understanding the sources of my food. I woke up ready to slaughter Quazi and prepare with him a meal.
I threw on my grungiest pair of jeans and a sleeveless shirt knowing it would be a messy job. Well that, and the sleeveless Tee made me feel a bit more matcho. We met by the pig-pen, the farmer with his gun, I with my boning knife. I rounded up Qauzi and carried him out of the pen. He knew the moment I grabbed him what was going to happen and started to scream. I knew there was nothing I could do to make this easier for him other than to do it fast. We couldn't get a rope around his legs to keep him still enough for a clear shot. We had to place him in a cage that kept him straight. Once Quazi realized he couldn't get out of the cage he seem to accept his fait and seised to resist. He lowered his head and the farmer fired a single perfect shot just off center of the head.
The deafening of the shot seemed to freeze time for a moment. I had never actually seen a real gun fired before, let alone into an animals head. Reality quickly picked up it's pace and with it instinct took control. I don't even remember pulling the pig from the cage. All I recall next is asking for someone to hold down his head from spasming then finding the breast bone and pushing my knife down against it. I undershot my initial cut and had to do another deeper. Both quick and clean cuts.
The blood began to pool around his head as we pumped his front leg. It did not take long to drain him. The spasms and pouring stopped; life had left his body. The moment is still surreal. The instant, where looking at him, he changed from a dyeing pig to a carcass of pork. I'm not really sure how many emotions hit me at that moment, pride, respect, guilt, humility. Every emotion reached a peek instantly with no real time to react to any. I was only getting started.
I was determined to give justice to Quazimoto's death by utilizing absolutely as much as I could of what life he had had left behind.
Cleaning a pig carcass is unique to other animals because pig skin is left on. This is means YAY! you don't have to skin him, but you do have to shave him. A process that is much more tedious than I expected and which lead to the occurrence of the single most repulsive moment of my life (And I've been pooped on by cows, A LOT).
Ideally there are special and unique equipment used for shaving a pig, but I have yet to live in an ideal world. Instead I had a sharp knife and some innovation. In order to shave the pig you must first scald the body, and why is this? Because, I realized, that you actually are shaving off an outer layer of skin and hair, which the hot water softens and causes to peel off easily. Or at least in theory.
So I filled a pot with water and heated it over a grill, proceeded to dunk half the pig carcass head first in the vat of steaming water, and then hauled the steaming corpse over to the picnic table to start exfoliating. Very little by litter the fibers and wrinkles cleared away to reveal a smooth baby soft under layer of skin. But after about an hour of playing dunk dunk shave with a steaming pig I began to get a little anxious, and the weather began to get a little impending. After hearing the second boom of thunder I realized I had to up my game. So I threw in a bit more elbow grease and increased my speed. Hairs were flying and I was just finishing up the hard to get areas like the inner thighs and well... the area I had seem to put off as long as possible.
Quazi was a boy and being able to relate with him in that sense it was a bit unsettling to man-scape his pubes with a boning knife. There is something about circumcising a pig that hits a level of irony not often achieved. It had to be done. I went at it with a force I soon would regret. I started from between his legs and scraped my way up his belly to the tip. When suddenly, I felt a splash of something warm and wet hit me in the face. I looked up and assumed the rain had made it's way over only to find a strip of blue sky still. And then I inhaled and smelt the putrid, PUTRID, stench of what I quickly realized was scalded dead pig piss. Apparently Quazi passed on with a full bladder and the force of my scraping against his groin was enough to help nature take its course and Quazi give me a post mortal golden shower.
It was everywhere. My arms, neck, cheek, lips, and yes, my mouth. The last thing I expected was anything to shoot out of the dead pig, and standing there thrusting my knife for over an hour left me a bit fatigued and panting a for air. I now know it's best to breath through my nose when occupied in such situations. I had to run for relief. I almost lost it, and I mean all of "IT". I gagged trying to find any breath of air untainted of pig taint. I ran to the kitchen sink and scalded myself thinking it best to loose a layer of skin myself.
I returned to Quazi and much more cautiously finished the job. He was now ready to be dressed. I called in some assistance to hold his legs up while I made the very shallow incision down his belly. This is where everything can turn for the worse very easily. Quazi was young and his belly very thin. If I cut too deep I punctured his gut and spilled "you know what" all over the place. I started at what would literally be the end by cutting around his "Bung" (but hole) and holding it up and closed while I peeled the rest of the digestion system working from back to front down and out. It really is incredible how closed of a system it is from the body. A few cuts of connective tissue and his entire digestive track, from tung to bung was removed.
I picked out the tastiest edible parts (heart, liver, tung, kidneys) and left the rest to turn into fertilizer. Now I was in familiar territory. Quazi was cleaned inside out and ready to break down into choice cuts. I wanted to do something special with him, both out of respect and prestige. I figured boning him out completely would be the best way of highlighting his tenderness and testing my skillfulness. It took me a lot longer than I'm sure it should take most but I deboned him completely leaving his spine and ribs intact all the way from head to tail.
For lunch I fried up his kidneys in butter and ate them with toast. For dinner I roasted one of his rear legs with a garlic and Dijon crust. The meat was perfect, moist and tender. I took my time with it and, I have to say, it is one of the best meals I've ever prepared. I served the leg with sauteed napa cabbage with rendered bacon and a little vinegar, roasted peaches with brandy and of course bread and cheese.
The meal reminded me of why I'm here. To experience and learn about the sources of my food and the importance of ensuring their safe, humane, and sustainable practices. If Quazi had been born in any Industrial CAFO (Concentrated Animal Feeding Operation) he most likely would have been killed earlier on due to his spine. A fait that would unfortunately have been in his best interest. If not he would have lived a life in a confined feeding pen, his tail removed to prevent other pigs, improperly weened from their mothers , from biting at it. He would have been fed a diet of genetically altered corn and soy, growth hormones and antibiotics, to prevent infection from the waist water and sewage he lived in. He would be killed in a production line then sliced, diced and wrapped up for delivery to a supermarket near you.
Here, Qauzi lived a good life. He lived off fresh whey, artisan cheese scraps, and day old wood fired bread. He lived free to roam and play with other pigs and enjoy all the pleasures of life a pig could ever ask for.